Monday, November 29, 2010

xian round 二

weekend in the ancient capital with my class.
details to come!

arriving at our hotel at 7 am after overnight train from beijing



terra cotta warriors



meeting up for an evening out with my friend from my last trip, "jesse"




shuyuan calligraphy street



xian city wall (only one completely intact in china), view of the city



grand mosque


Sunday, November 28, 2010

film midterm assignment

who says chinese professors can't give positive reinforcement? i guess this is no ordinary chinese professor :)

"Dear Grace,
Thank you for your excellent paper. I enjoy reading it very much. Indeed this is a very standard survey and your questions are all designed to serve the need to discuss an issue of far reaching impact opon a nation that used to be torn by war inflcited by foreign aggressors. Your questions are wonderfully designed and the different answers you collected reflect the psyche of a nation on the rise. Your findings well articulated the current sentiments among the general public, it is full of details of the change I myself feel strongly about over the years. I am glad you are collecting new answers to a question that posibly will divide this country the way it does in the US. But I am glad the overall attitudes are against the war, esp. among the young people.
Best.
Teng Jimeng"

Midterm Paper: Comparing Two Landmark Chinese War Films and Analyzing Current Chinese Attitudes about War

Tunnel Warfare and Assembly are both Chinese films about war, but they were produced generations apart and shaped by completely different historical-cultural circumstances. Tunnel Warfare, directed by Ren Xudong and released in 1965, is the inspiring story of a village that cleverly defends itself against invaders during the Sino-Japanese War by building a network of tunnels and outwitting their enemies. Assembly, directed by Feng Xiaogang and released in 2007, tells the story of People’s Liberation Army Captain Gu Zidi, who loses his entire unit of soldiers in one of the Chinese Civil War’s final battles. The Captain then spends the rest of his life in pursuit of honor and recognition for his fallen men.

For two films of the same war genre, Tunnel Warfare and Assembly share almost nothing in terms of plot, characterization, cinematography, and overall message. This divergence comes from a basic philosophical disagreement on the very nature of war. By portraying the villagers as a unified and intelligent force against evil, Tunnel Warfare tells us that war brought out the best in the Chinese people. Assembly, on the other hand, shows us that war brought out the worst in the Chinese, causing countrymen to turn against one another and resulting in massive death tolls.

Each film uses its respective devices to communicate its message. In the case of these two, plot is the most impacting element and provides the starkest contrast. In Tunnel Warfare, the villagers are disadvantaged in every way against their Japanese invaders. However, they are inspired by Mao Zedong’s writings and use their own ingenuity to fight back. Instead of employing conventional weaponry and tactics, they work together to dig the tunnel network. When the tunnels fail, the villagers persevere in improving them, until they achieve victory against the Japanese enemy in a final, glorious battle. Assembly lacks this linear quality and “happy ending.” It begins with Captain Gu losing all the men in his People’s Liberation Army unit in one of the final battles with the Guomindang. Each man falls, because Gu is under strict orders not to surrender until the bugle is sounded and the troops may retreat and assemble. After all is lost, Gu is plagued with the guilt, tormented by the possibility that the bugle in fact sounded, but he ignored it instead of saving his men. Long after the war is over, Gu’s search for his dead comrades causes him to discover that the bugle was never sounded. Gu’s superior officer wanted Gu’s unit to continue fighting as a diversion, while the rest of the forces retreated. Gu is forced to deal with this bitter betrayal and tragic realization.

These two plotlines give the audience two very different impressions of warfare. Tunnel Warfare’s story is inspiring and exciting. It tells us that war unifies people and forces them to think of creative ways to solve problems. It portrays war as a fair engagement in which the good will always triumph over the evil, no matter what the material circumstances of each party are. In Assembly, however, war is just a senseless conflict between men. Neither party can be delineated as right or wrong. The hero and his comrades are shown to be imperfect. Betrayal and the committing of war crimes demonstrate that battle brings man’s deepest flaws to the surface. Finally, by narrating the journey of a soldier after the war is over, Assembly emphasizes the abysmal psychological effects of soldiers who have faced combat, whereas Tunnel Warfare ends on the simplistic and joyful note of victory.

I used these two films as a starting point to begin a discourse with Chinese people on their war-film experience, and their attitudes toward war in real life. In order to survey different types of people in a timely manner, I wrote a multiple-choice questionnaire with nine questions. With each question, I also provided space to write one’s own thoughts, in the case the person surveyed did not find any of my answers suitable.

The questions were as follows: “Have you watched Assembly, and what was your impression like? Have you watched Tunnel Warfare, and what was your impression like? What does each of these films tell us as an audience? Which film do you like better? If a serious issue arose between China and another nation today, would you advocate diplomacy or war as a solution? Has China’s “中国和平崛起”or “peaceful nation” policy affected Chinese leader/citizen attitudes about war? Do you have any relatives who have fought in wars before? How do they feel about war today?”

After conducting this survey, my overall impression is that many people have seen both of these movies and perceive them very differently, just as I do. The greatest differentiation in answers occurred in people’s impressions of the respective films, so I will detail those answers below. In the second, “real life” section of the survey, everyone agreed that China is now a peaceful nation with the ability to solve external problems using diplomacy, and internal problems through stable, one-party rule. Most agreed that priorities such as economic development and education have trumped war making. However, all stipulated that if diplomacy and other means fail, war is still a viable option for China. Two people surveyed went out of their way to specify that conflicts involving economic interests or presenting potential profits (such as oil or territory) would be most likely to provoke war.

Returning to the films, I found that three out of six people surveyed had not seen Assembly. This surprised me because, upon watching the film, I immediately drew comparison to the American film, Saving Private Ryan. Equally disturbing and violent, Saving Private Ryan is considered historically significant and therefore its screening is treated as a “rite of passage.” Young Americans must watch it in order to understand the Western experience in World War II. This statistic made me reflect upon the fact that Assembly’s assessment of the Chinese Civil War is actually quite new and controversial, therefore the film is not placed on a pedestal like that of Saving Private Ryan. Of the people who had watched, the only person who felt deeply impacted by the film referred to the fighting spirit and undying loyalty of Chinese soldiers. He was more inspired by the characters and less perturbed by the brutality or terribleness of war.

All except one person agreed that Assembly’s message is not “war is completely bad,” but rather, “even though war has bad aspects, it is sometimes necessary.” That one person was the only elderly man I interviewed who had watched Assembly (most elderly had not watched). This man, sixty-eight years old, believed that Assembly tries to tells us that war is completely bad, but does so falsely. He reasoned that the director uses “new ideas to tell an old story,” thus distorting the true nature of the Chinese Civil War. He added that, “war is just war,” and it need not be dramatized as so terrible. I found this an interesting perspective from someone who lived through the Civil War and whose father was a veteran of the War of Resistance against Japan. It caused me to think that perhaps those who have lived through war are actually most accepting of it. Even though they have suffered the consequences, they believe most deeply in the causes, whereas we cannot directly relate to the events and emotions that provoked theses wars.

On the other hand, answers regarding Tunnel Warfare were essentially identical. Only one out of six people interviewed had not seen the film. All who had watched agreed that the film impacted them deeply, while three added that it was a childhood favorite. This reaffirmed what I had read at Beijing’s Chinese Film Museum; Tunnel Warfare is the most watched film in the world and a beloved of the Chinese people. Young and old answered that Tunnel Warfare is patriotic, showcasing their countrymen’s cleverness and capability. All agreed that the film is exciting and comedic, but its main purpose is to demonstrate how to prevail in unfair circumstances. In spite of decades of peaceful foreign policy, I believe that part of the reasoning behind China’s vigorous military development is the understandable desire to avoid “unfair” confrontation in the future. Nevertheless, according to the people interviewed, Chinese leaders do not view themselves as aggressors. They responded that it is actually the Chinese people who sometimes wish their leaders to be more aggressive in the international sphere.

I naturally conclude by comparing this situation to that of my home country. In the United States, I see huge variations in opinions about war stemming from people’s age, political affiliation, etc. Young people generally oppose war no matter what the circumstances, while older people believe that sacrifice is necessary for the preservation of freedom. Republicans are considered “war hawks,” while Democrats are considered “doves.” A survey like this, conducted in the United States, could have generated a plethora of answers. Some people would be indifferent, while others would have fiercely opposing answers.
Through these films and interviews, I see Chinese attitudes about war to be more uniform. This overall similarity could be due to the many educational, cultural, and political differences between these two nations that inform the nature of debate. When asking these type of questions in China, I have often been told, “莫谈国事,”or “nobody discusses country (political) matters.” On my campus, students are encouraged to seek information about America’s politics and wars, then develop their own opinions to discuss with their peers and professors. This type of contentious atmosphere may not be encouraged on Chinese campuses.

Similarity of answers could also be attributed to the limited scope of my survey. One person interviewed was a high school educated, twenty-year old male shopkeeper. Two people interviewed were retired elderly men relaxing on the campus. The remaining three were female university students. One of these students went out of her way to explain that her answers bore relation to her high level of education. Uneducated people, such as her parents, or the middle aged men that she overhears taking the train back to her home province, have extremely militant attitudes, and would like to see China go to war again in their lifetimes. These comments suggest that a more differentiated survey might provide a wider range of Chinese attitudes toward war.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

感恩节快乐!

gǎn'ēnjié kuàilè... "happy thanksgiving"

it's the day after one of my favorite american holidays, and i am eating microwaved leftover stuffing and sweet potatoes in my dorm in beijing. i don't know if i can convey how happy this makes me!

in the week leading up to turkey day i was rather homesick [worth noting, "turkey" is 火鸡 huǒjī, literally "fire chicken"]. this is probably because thanksgiving sums up all the things that i am really beginning to want ... western food, english, my home, my friends, and most of all my FAMILY. but i have not always been good about being home for this holiday. senior year of high school, i went to seattle to visit my close friend from camp, nicole, and celebrate thanksgiving with her family and friends at their cottage on orcas island. it was like a dream :) freshman year, tickets home were expensive and traversing the country for a weekend seemed silly... so i went to a friend's home on the chesapeake bay for another wonderful weekend... but definitely cried in a corner once and thought about how i should've made the trek to cali. sophomore year, i reunited with my entire 50-day cabin in montreal, a decision that is impossible to regret.. just like the decision i made to come to china this year.

nevertheless, alliance did a wonderful job of at least addressing the "food" and "good company" aspects of thanksgiving. last week, some of us helped jada, our assistant director, find recipes for sweet potatoes with marshmallow, stovetop stuffing, turkey, mashed potatoes, pumpkin pie, corn soup, and broccoli casserole, then multiply those recipes to serve about 60 people! she totally went the extra mile by making salad and finding gravy and cranberry sauce. this woman is my hero. we students helped cook, decorate, explain the history of thanksgiving, and put on performances for our teachers, language partners, and other chinese guests.



and finally, a picture of my language partner, liu jing, and me! love this girl. she is so intense and so awesome.



so that was last night. this week hasn't been too eventful, because we were so busy rushing to turn in papers, take tests, prepare for the holiday party, because we are jetting to xi'an tonight on an overnight train. our program is making a 48 hour trip [tragically short...] to the old capital this weekend.

last friday was interesting though, a few classmates and i went to the gigantic capital art museum with our calligraphy teacher, zheng laoshi. he is the funniest old man in beijing. we adore him because he is totally honest about when our characters suck, but he tells us in such expressive ways, e.g. "those characters have evil feelings" or "those characters look like an angry drunk man wrote them! smoother, smoother" or "that looks like korean..." ok, those might not be the best examples, but he really is a master at giving constructive criticism.



here's zheng laoshi examining some cursive script in the museum. it's so pretty... we asked if we could try it in the next class but learned a harsh lesson on how DIFFICULT it is. i think that's when i got the "drunk man" comment.


that night we went to a benefit concert for an orphanage in beijing that specializes in children with developmental disorders. our classmate namgyel volunteers there and sold us the tickets. it was wonderful to do something so fun for such a good cause. but when the managers introduced some of the children and told their stories (abandoned shortly after birth, or when parents became too old and tried to get rid of them), it was pretty heavy. these kids have something, but there are so few places like this in china.





oh dear. i need to be on a bus to the train station in half and hour. more next week from xi'an! xo

Thursday, November 18, 2010

1 MONTH

today is november 18, 2010.

on december 18, 2010... i will be in a cab to the beijing capital airport, on a plane to LAX, and in a scion driving down the 405 freeway to my home, sweet home. i will have been in china for 6 months and 12 days.

with this date approaching, i have been running around beijing doing lots of things that i have intended to do all along. for example: shopping for cheap, attending a calligraphy class, hitting the student bars [legally] for practically free, eating everything in sight [no bueno], and finally, visiting museums, markets, temples, and other places of interest.

our recent outings have been fun but also bittersweet! i feel overwhelmed by the idea that it will be over so soon. it sounds so strange when i think about my panicky, culture-shocked first few weeks here... but right now china is my home just as much as dc is! i feel confident with the language, getting around, having fun, connecting with people, blah blah. in fact, maybe more confident than i feel in dc. the daily challenges of living in a foreign country would frazzle me at first. but now confronting and [usually] overcoming them is exciting and rewarding.

of course, my intention is to soak up all the wudaokou wonderfulness in these next 4 weeks. but as spring nears, i am absorbed with preparations: figuring out my academic schedule, applying for GW programs and countless DC internships, making housing plans, etc. i'm frustrated because all these undertakings have required my mind to be back in america while my body is still in zhongguo! but that's life, and as i sit here writing this, i literally feel embarrassed for complaining when i am surrounded by all these fantastic opportunities.

so! i shall complain about something else. the beijing air quality... haha. to quote a blogger: "Beijing's air pollution index is off the charts right now. Literally. Highest ever on record. China's State Environmental Protection Administration (SEPA) has a pollution rating scale that measures up to 500. I don't think it's ever reached that level before. 25 is safe. 200 is a bad day for Beijing. The average for the last 24 hours has been above 500." here are some pictures to help you... get the picture ;)

this is the view out my window at 2 pm on a normal day. not too clear but 还可以。。。will do.


this is the view out my window at 3 pm today. uhhhhhhhhh.


and just for fun, this is a window washing man suspended by a 1 inch wide rope and wooden seat, cleaning my 13th story window while i wrote a cover letter to the CECC yesterday. holla.



I <3 BJ

Sunday, November 14, 2010

temple of heaven park

你好
ni haaaaao

last saturday i revisited my favorite place in beijing with my BLCU classmates... the temple of heaven! i loved visiting over the summer on my weekend trip to beijing, because of the unique architecture, the old-china atmosphere, and the huge procession ways that send your imagination spinning. you can totally envision an imperial ceremony taking place with hundreds of people, animals, etc.

somewhere in the temple's history, the surrounding park became a gathering place for beijingers... the opening scene of "farewell my concubine" takes place in the 1920s and there are kungfu groups and opera singers performing, people selling street food, and socializing. today, those traditions live on, as you can see below! i really feel this is the most authentic place to spend time in the city. it's lao beijing [old beijing] at it's proudest.

calligraphy using water and brush-shaped sponges on a stick


calligraphy for beginners


bakhtiyar and i overlooking the actual temple complex


one of countless groups of senior citizens drinking tea and playing cards, majong, or dominos


a father and son watching a chorus performance (which eventually made my day by switching gears and belting out celine dion's "my heart will go on"). everyone knows that one of my favorite things about china is seeing parents and especially grandparents out with grandchildren. spending time with the extended family is paramount here, and people truly enjoy it. it makes your heart happy to see!


the piercing, high-pitched peking opera with traditional music


ballroom dancing! at least a hundred couples, some with loads of style. these two old men gave emma and faith a warm welcome and included them with some simple steps. sooooooo cute... i got a turn eventually too!



so that was our lovely saturday morning at tiantan, temple of heaven. in the afternoon, we had lunch together, then went to the famous beijing pearl market. al the boys got sweet gifts for their ladies back home, and fake cologne downstairs for themselves, ha. i may or may not have purchased some gifts for a loved one back at the ranch...!!!! anyway, the highlight of this shopping expedition was testing how much our bargaining skills have improved (aka, a lot). the pearl market has a reputation for being much more reasonable than other markets... and i still managed to take 1/3 or 1/2 off my prices. i think my strongest points are:

1) even when i am trying, i sort of look like a slob. i am always too lazy/forgetful to put on jewelry or anything nicer than tennis shoes, so the "poor student" thing goes a long way for me.
2) my chinese has gotten good enough for me to talk in circles and at least nudge for native-speaker pricing.
3) i give harsh speeches about how my mother is chinese and will get angry and "DA" me if the quality of what i am buying sucks (oops... did i just give something away?!)
4) i will take the tiiiiiime. from my experience, this is the most effective method. people get so tired of you! they eventually want to have money in their hands and have you go away. on my biggest ticket item i spent 45 minutes choosing, getting to know the salespeople, haggling, and finally buying.

on the downside, shopping in china is exhausting. you come home feeling like you have run a marathon or fought a battle. if xmas shopping kills us at home, can you imagine what it would be like here?!

all in all, saturday was a very "beijing" day :)

Friday, November 12, 2010

chinese film museum

ni hao ni hao. it's 12:30 in the morning and i haven't begun a chinese essay due tomorrow. the logical thing to do instead? blog :) really... it's been too long!

this week, our chinese film professor is in america (first stop: stanford university for a speaking event!) so our class had a field trip in place of our usual lecture and screening. we went to beijing's chinese film museum, which is very cool but awkwardly large and in the middle of nowhere. anyway, i will take this opportunity to share some of the stuff i have learned about chinese film.

the picture below is from the imax theater inside the museum, which most recently showed "avatar." interesting backstory: the film industry in china has been historically controlled by the party because of its precious propaganda function. the government used to be the sole financier of films, and today it still finances the majority made in china. although blatant propaganda has gone out of style, patriotic films are still encouraged. "confucius," an epic about the sage which propagates education, traditional values, etc. was released this february. unfortunately, this was right alongside "avatar," whose hype was unbeatable and attracted the largest box office sum in chinese history. china only allows 20 foreign films to be screened here a year, so for one to steal the spotlight this way was a huge issue. at first, the government reacted by canceling "avatar" showings and increasing "confucius" showings, but the backlash was intense so they let off.


here are jimmy and i with a familiar face... jackie chan in "rumble in the bronx" attire. from talking with my language partner, i understand that chinese actors/actresses that "go international" like chan are judged by their countrymen on the level of "chineseness" that they maintain through it all. gong li for instance... traitor. she starred in many of china's most important films thanks to her working relationship with china's golden director, zhang yimou. but after a falling out with him, she became famous abroad and married a singaporean businessman/attained singaporean citizenship. not cool. chan, on the other hand, is famous abroad but stays true to a chinese art (kungfu) and plays distinctly "chinese" characters.


bruce lee, emma, ollie and jimmy in the last scene of "fists of fury." i am ashamed to say i still haven't watched a bruce lee movie. aiya!


below, an exhibit about the film "地道战“ or "tunnel warfare." did you know... "tunnel warfare" is the most watched film in history? i had never heard of it until forced to watch in class! but this film (1965) is like, i don't know, the "lion king" of china. everyone has to see it and kids especially love it. it's about clever villagers who overcome their lack of arms and experience by building a network of tunnels to fight the japanese in the 1937 war of resistance. it's militant but also comedic, most of the film is (1) rallying around mao zedong's writings (2) outwitting dumb japanese brutes who chase the villagers around, fall into booby traps, etc. my language partner confirmed, along with many others, that this was her childhood favorite, which inspired my final research project topic: media influence on chinese perception of the japanese.


overall, my impression of chinese film so far is: awesome. in reality, that is probably because i am immersed and therefore interested in all-things-china, and because my expectations were really low to begin with (i couldn't sit through "the last emperor" back in the day. could you?!) this is all coming from someone who barely watches movies in the first place and could hardly be considered an enthusiast. but our professor provides a great framework for us to look through. he says, china had a clear-cut, long standing identity for hundreds of generations. then, the 20th (and 21st) centuries brought movements that pulled and pushed china in all kinda of directions, but all were different from what china really was. because film is an art of those centuries, chinese film is simply a great debate. "who were we?" "who are we?" "how did we become this way?" and "who do we actually want to be?"

Sunday, November 7, 2010

the never-ending city

every week is an adventure. i thought i would take it easy since i returned from thailand exhausted and with a cold, but beijing decided otherwise! i feel like i could stay here many more months, and still have something to new do, every single day.

on thursday our class took a field trip to the beijing office of the american chamber of commerce. we were hosted by mariel montouri, a 25 year old brazilian woman who grew up all over the world, including connecticut and shanghai. she has now worked at am-cham for 3 months. her intern, maxine, is from davidson university in north carolina. mariel and maxine first gave us the standard speech about what am-cham does, then led a question-answer session all about what it is like to graduate and then come work in china. this was a hugely interesting talk, since many of us have this dream for after graduation, but of course we are intimidated by the prospect of starting from scratch in the crazy chinese business world.

to my delight, mariel emphasized that finding a job in china is (1) easier, and (2) more fun than you might think. as long as you are willing to come to beijing and go through the process in person, it can be done. applying from america is 100% useless. also, you MUST apply through shuren... familiar people or acquaintances. if the person on the other side does not know who you are or wasn't told specifically to look at your resume... no chance. so keep in touch with every single person you meet in china. i'm taking her advice seriously!



on friday, we went as a group to the tailor shop that made our program director's wedding tux, and his wife's gown. when americans come to china, they often get tailored clothing because it is so relatively cheap. for example, my roommate jen got a suit and interchangeable skirt custom made for 850 renminbi... less than 130 usd. i ordered a custom copy of a shanghai tang designed silk qipao (traditional chinese dress) which cost 470 renminbi or 70 usd. jen and i both bargained our items down about 200 renminbi.



on saturday, a few of us went with jada to visit the lama temple (yonghe gong). the temple was built during the qing dynasty as a sign of friendship and respect to tibetan buddhist leaders. jada taught us the proper way to pray with incense at a buddhist temple. the grounds were really nice, but the best part was just being out and about in the pretty fall scenery.




that afternoon, we continued to the confucius temple and "campus" nearby. this is historic epicenter of scholarship in china, where potential civil servants took the confucian-based exams in hopes of attaining positions. during the ming dynasty, the odds of testing at the top level were 1 in 10,000. people think that is stunning, but it seems to me that the situation today is even worse! more and more people have access to education, so the competition literally becomes more fierce every day. pressure begins in elementary school, because elementary school grades and exit tests determine entry into middle school (then middle to high school, then high school to college, then college to career, etc.) i complained about SAT class junior year of high school... but chinese 2nd graders are already in my shoes!

the second picture is from the temple's exhibit on confucius's life. he was basically an ordinary guy... except perfect. and today, 1.4 billion people live by his philosophy. most influential man in the world? maybe it's because i am in the thick of it, i certainly think so.



one more sidenote from this week: in film class we watched "assembly," a 2007 film by feng xiaogang. i highly recommend it to anyone who likes war movies, even though that person will immediately pick up on cinematic elements ripped off from "saving private ryan." nevertheless, it's an amazing movie about a war that the rest of the world doesn't know much about... the chinese civil war, which raged from the end of WWII to 1949. plus, it features an all-star cast from china's contemporary film world. it's easy to find online because the director surrendered the rights... he wants anyone to be able to watch it. just beware: grown men will shed tears watching this film.


andddd finally, i promised more reflection on thailand but i think i will have to do that later. tomorrow i am going to the famous capital museum with faith after chinese class, so i will probably add pictures and comments again soon. maybe i'll get to it then!

Monday, November 1, 2010

bienvenue à backpacker paradise

i guess it pretty much goes without saying... thailand was wonderful! caroline, mallory and i packed a lot of action into 9 days of travel, so once again, i am going to go the "photo-journal" route, instead of trying to narrate every detail. ideally, i can give a summary of our trip, and later (when i have mentally rested and recovered) write about some of my observations and thoughts... especially concerning the worlds of difference between thailand and china.

these pictures are from our chaotic first 24 hours in thailand. it goes like this: on friday at noon, we finished our midterms. we threw our stuff into our bags and headed to the airport, arrived in bangkok at midnight, then our hotel at 1 am. slept from 1-4 am, then got in a cab to the city and on a bus/catamaran combination that put us on the southern island of ko phangan at 5 pm in the afternoon. why? three words: full - moon - party... the legendary, monthly congregation of 10,000+ people on thailand's beaches who want nothing except to party all night. hey, we're young. it's epic. we had to make it. and yes, that is a dog in the refrigerator of the bus stop.




when we arrived in ko phangan, every hostel was full to the brim, including the one with which we had been corresponding. no worries... this is thailand! we were offered deluxe and FREE accommodation on the roof. i kid you not. no photos were taken that evening because caroline mallory and i would really like to get jobs some day. but the signage and 10 am "morning-after rave" basically sum it up. this party even has a website, if you really want to know more. http://fullmoonparty-thailand.com/




from then on, we were good little tourists. seriously! we hopped on the first ferry off that island (which IMMEDIATELY loses its appeal when the party's over... yikes) to ko samui, thailand's paradise for all people. high-end resorts or hostels on the beach, you choose. we took a tour around the island on monday. mommy, the first picture is for you. you would be proud, toyota is VERY present in thailand and especially dominates the tourism vehicle market. next is caroline holding a monkey, who got us coconuts to drink from the top of trees. and finally, a picture of the trio :)




on that tour, typical methods of sucking extra money out of travelers were utilized, e.g. dropping us off at the base of this mountain and telling us that we could climb 30 minutes to the waterfall at the top, or ride elephants for 700 baht to another waterfall. of the entire van full of people, the three of us and one brazilian girl were the only to climb to the top! it was rather dangerous work but tons of fun, and the swim at the top was so cold and refreshing and perfect. we definitely earned our [deliciousss] green curries from the night market that evening.




we also used ko samui as a base to make a day trip to an thong national park, an archipelago of 42 preserved islands about 2 hours away. it monsoon-rained the whole ride out, but once we got there the clouds magically cleared and made for an amazing day :) from the boat, we were able to island-hop, kayak, hike to incredible view points, and even have a buffet lunch! all our guides were hilarious, as was the company of other travelers (germans, canadians and brits for the most part)




this is nothing more than the obligatory picture with thai transexuals... yay for the most sexually tolerant nation in the world! the word on the street is true, some of them are more beautiful than women. depressing?


i think the highlight of our trip was rock climbing in railey beach. midweek, we took ferries and buses from the eastern islands to the west coast of the mainland, or krabi province. railey is famous because (1) it's gorgeous and (2) it attracts all kinds of climbers... beginners and experts can both have a great experience there. i have been on many a rock wall in my days as a summer camper, but this was my first time actually scaling rock faces... and in the most stunning scenery i could have imagined. our guide, soley, was so chill and patient, we felt so lucky to have him with us the entire day (which only cost 65 USD for pickup, gear, a guide, lunch, water, and climbing from 9 am to 5 pm).




on friday night, we took an overnight bus from krabi to bangkok, stopping at sketchy jungle bus stations every few hours along the way. sort of a blurry night. arrived in the city at 7 am the next morning, welcomed by omnipresent pictures of the thai royal family. i have seen them so much i feel like they are my bffls!



when in bangkok, tuk-tuk! tuk-tuks are the little three-wheeled vehicles that tote tourists all around. on saturday morning we ditched our stuff at a hostel, nommed some street food, and got straight to seeing the city. this is the grand palace, the craziest, shiniest, most unique collection of architecture i've ever seen. sweet.



in the afternoon we recharged by the river with more street food... things sampled throughout the week include: thai iced tea, fresh fruit juices, coconut ice cream with sweet corn, mango and sticky rice, taro pancakes, banana roti crepes, fish ball noodles, spring rolls, pad thai (duh), fried rice, and finally, the best fresh pineapple slices ever.



these pictures are from wat pho, one of bangkok's most important temples. it is home to the largest reclining buddha in the world, and the sacred art of thai massage (which costs about 6 USD per hour). mmmm.



since we are studying abroad in china, we HAD to visit bangkok's chinatown to explore and have a meal! it was fantastically bustling, with all these restaurants pouring out onto the street and churning out fresh seafood like nobody's business. after so much time in transit and a crazy day all over bangkok... we slept like rocks on our last night in paradise.



on sunday our flight wasn't scheduled to leave till 7 pm, so we spent the afternoon at bangkok's massive "weekend market," which is BY FAR the coolest, hugest market i have ever been to. sorry china... beats anything you can offer. i probably could have spent two entire days there... caroline and mallory did not share my enthusiasm and had to peel me away at noon. my last picture in the city basically sums it up, chang beer tshirt and a seven 11! these convenience stores are EVERYWHERE, even in random villages we passed through. basically, seven 11 : thailand :: starbucks : washington dc.



and that 7 pm flight? that didn't happen. after a suspiciously long wait, we were told our flight was canceled (very bad news for three girls that were supposed to be in class at 9 am the next morning). we were given a $6 meal voucher, which buys NOTHING in an airport, and told to wait until 1 am for the next flight. we were quite bitter as we boarded, knowing we'd arrive in beijing about 7 am in the morning, until we were seated in BUSINESS CLASS and all that bitterness was replaced by giddy excitement, free slippers, reclining chairs, and red wine. i walked into class at 9 am feeling like the queen of thailand :P